In Ethiopia, a taste of home for displaced Yemenis

The World

When conflict broke out in Yemen in 2014, Karim Gamal and his family were, like countless others, forced to flee their homes.

Six years later, millions of Yemenis remain internally displaced, and thousands of others have left the country altogether, fleeing to the Gulf, Europe, or, in Gamal’s case, Ethiopia.

“We all have the love of Ethiopia,” said Gamal, who is half Ethiopian, and half Yemeni.

He was living in Yemen when the conflict broke out. His life story is a testament to the shared history between the two countries. 

Today, he works behind the counter at Yemen Kings, a restaurant in Addis Ababa, the Ethiopian capital, which his father and uncle opened in 2019.

During the day, dozens of guests of all backgrounds crowd around long tables to share traditional Yemeni dishes like fahsa, a stew made out of beef or lamb.

“It’s a food that you can find in all Yemen houses,” Gamal said. “They burn it in fire at a high temperature” in pots called hareda.

By 9 p.m., most customers at Yemen Kings have gone home, but grilled meat still sizzles on the grill for late-night sandwiches paired with kerkede, a sweet Yemeni drink.

“It’s made of roses, red roses that have been dried,” Gamal explained. “After it’s dried, they sink it in water.”

Since its opening, Yemen Kings has become a popular destination for Ethiopians as well as Arab visitors. 

But for Yemeni residents in Addis Ababa, especially those who have fled the conflict, the restaurant holds a particularly special meaning.